"Our Lips Meet Easily, High Across The Narrow Streets" : A Stroll Through The Alfama

The Alfama of Lisbon, Portugal

     Have you ever walked down a narrow cobblestone road and felt that you have just step back in time.  This is the case for me, every time I venture down the medieval streets of the Alfama.  I do not know if it is the little old ladies that are clad from head to toe in black heading down these quiet little lanes on their way to the market, or could it be the laundry gently blowing in the wind as it hangs between the rod iron balconies.  Either way this classic neighborhood has a rustic charm and ambiance that is seldom scene in this modern age. 

     To adequately experience this tremendous neighborhood, you need to stroll through it's characteristic lanes for yourself.  I would begin at the highest point in Lisbon, Castelo de Sao Jorge (The St. George Castle).  This formidable castle overlooks the sprawling city below and provides the onlookers with the most breath taking of views.  Here you can see a plethora of red tiled roofs and white stucco walls all against the deep azure of the Tejo River.  From the castle you descend into the old sailors quarter, also known as the Alfama.  This throwback to a begotten era, is a collection of gritty maze like streets that date back to the 700's.  They were originally designed to twist and turn to disorient and discourage invading armies that planed on attacking the castle.  Unlike the rest of Lisbon, this jumble of roads and buildings survived the great earthquake of 1755 and thus has retained it's original grandeur, from it's crumbling statuary to the hand painted tiles that were imported from Brazil to keep these buildings insulated from the relentless heat of the Mediterranean sun.  These tiles are a beautiful reflection of the cities very long and turbulent history.  Some of them are decorated with elaborate geometric designs, which are heavily influenced from the days when the Islamic Moore's ruled this part of the world.  Other designs impart a deep seated devotion to God which is exhibited in religious scenes and famous portraits of well known and beloved saints that are prayed upon to protect the various families still living within the Alfama.  While others depict scenes of everyday life in simplistic, in yet elogant ways.  The best thing about these gorgeous tiled walls is that these artistic treasures are everywhere and create yet another layer to this unique montage.

     Now pause and take a deep breath.  That overwhelming aroma that is coursing through these shaded lanes is a wonderful combination of clams being slow cooked in olive oil and garlic as well as the saltiness of the near by sea.  As you continue your decent to the river, you will inadvertently stumble across those quintessential moments that will allow you to see what everyday life is like in the Alfama.  Be it a couple of older gentlemen playing a game of cards in the Largo Santa Luzia or a group of young kids reenacting last nights futbol match in a small ally way.  As you wined through these tight little lanes, you will undoubtedly hear the haunting sounds of Fado reverberating through the streets.  This heart wrenching music is the national obsession for the Portuguese and it is the soul of these roughed streets.  In fact, if you come down here at night, you will be quick to discover that the bars are full of extremely talented locals lamenting about love and of love lost. 

     As you finally arrive at the river, look back and remember the rustically charming neighborhood that you have just visited, because in this era of constant change and modernization, the Alfama is definitely a romantic vision of what yesterday was like in this part of the old world.

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